Some chefs take the straight-and-easy road to cooking, while others, like Laurent Quenieux, see it as an adventure. At his new Bistro LQ, the French-born chef is known for his use of game and offal in exotic and courageous presentations. The food is farm fresh and organic when possible, with ridiculous-sounding seafood like sea urchin tapioca pudding w/ yuzu kosho & kumamoto oysters in a yuzu martini gelee; monkfish cheeks w/ cippolini onion, artichoke confit, and pomegranate molasses; and salmon w/ chicharrones ragu, baby abalone, and bone marrow “royale”. The insanity continues onto meatier dishes like squab w/ duck hearts, gizzard pastilla w/ pistachios, rhubarb, and Middle Eastern-flavored ras al hanout jus, braised baby goat w/ guahillo peppers and oregano-scented tripe, and sunchoke puree-abetted veal cheek.
Dessert
Bistro LQ introduces the Five-Course Dessert
Bistro LQ is an indoor-outdoor space with a decadent five-course dessert menu.
First, find your way to a sidewalk table—the simple room spills out into the street, and the whole place is bright and white.
Build your own post-feast feast with options like Raspberry Glass With a Basil Sorbet. Then maybe some Rice Pudding in Goat Milk With Red Beets Espuma. Perhaps a helping of Avocado Mousse. A Chocolate Cookie With Salted Peanut Brittle Ice Cream. And for lucky number five—A Composition Around Dark Chocolate, which includes everything from churros with chocolate sauce to a chocolate pancake.
Drinks
As far as booze goes, LQ’s got a small list of artisan beers (Anderson Valley Boonte Amber Ale; Unibroe La Fin Du Monde; etc) as well as an extensive international wine list divided into four categories, according to the chef “based on moments of life and feelings” — “Celebration and Idare”, “First Date”, “Love and Passion”, “Sexy and Flirt”.
Cheese
With a dizzying array of sweet and savory house-made condiments, he takes even the classic cheese cart to new heights.
There are 20 to 30 different cow’s-, goat’s- and sheep’s-milk cheeses offered nightly, with several accoutrements served in tiny pots to go with them. A plate can have five to seven pieces or as many as 15 ($8, $15 or $24 depending on the number of diners), and comes with bite-size handmade breads.
With so many choices, the staff will offer some direction—try the sweet blueberry jelly with sharp Roquefort, or cumin seeds with smoky Alsatian Munster—but it’s more fun to explore. Have a bit of bright-tasting apple gelée with a bite of the earthy Pont-l’Évêque, or try one of Quenieux’s favorites, the tangy green tomato ketchup (click here for the recipe) with runny Sainte-Maure goat cheese.
Save the truffle honey for last: One bite by itself is like a pre-dessert dessert.
Bistro LQ
8009 Beverly Blvd
(E. of Laurel)
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323-951-1088
http://www.bistrolq.com/